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Christoph Kunz took over the reigns from Diethard Urbansky with whom he worked as his sous-chef. I never liked the style of Mr. Urbansky, for me it was a completely useless 2* restaurant.
However, under the lead of Mr. Kurz things are quite differently. He produces product oriented dishes with not too many ingredients. Look for example at the picture of the turbot before pouring the sauce. There is not much there but a simple slice of excellent turbot with a few condiments.
The canapés kick you off to a very good start with the popcorn with caviar and the oyster in buttermilk with blue berries the high light.
He obviously has instructed his staff to announce the dishes with minimal information. They come and tell you for example “scallop and fennel“ leaving out at least three other components. This might be not important for the scallop, but at the subsequent dish they left out the Foie gras, for the guest to discover under the beechnuts. Not really bad, but worth mentioning as a concept.
I felt that as they menu progressed the later dishes were a little under seasoned with the patisserie in urgent need of an upgrade.
Pleasant meal in relaxed, casual atmosphere with the staff dressed in all black with sneakers and a green apron. Some of them could be more friendly beside being very professional.
6 / 10
