Why is it that many people don't like Classic French cuisine? Some argue that it is boring because it is rather predictable. That might be, but so is sex with a long term partner and we still like it.

Matt Abé cooks at Gordon Ramsey classical French cuisine. He does it really well. He took over from Claire Smyth when she left to set up her own shop. He tweaked the menu gently and applied some individual touches and techniques. And he creates excellent dishes. None of them push boundaries, they are not thought provoking and awake a social consciences, but they taste very well. The ingredients are excellent, the execution without any flaw, the flavours layered in exactly the pleasant way, and what really endears him to me, the level of acidity is high. For me as an acidity junkie perfect.

There are some classics, which I have eaten at Aubergine when GR was still working as a Chef, like the lobster ravioli. Slightly changed it still holds up as wonderful dish with all the components one would wish for. The sweetbread as well the turbot were cooked in the pan and had a fairly thick caramelised crust on top which enhanced the texture in the mouth, an interesting technique which is applied rarely. The pigeon from Bresse, rosé but not bleeding, comfort food on the highest possible level!

Jean Claude, the Maitre D’ since the inception of the restaurant, still does not recognise the people who came many times, but runs the front of thee house, efficient but personable.

I am glad I went back to check out this place after Ms. Smyth left, it is as good as it gets and deserves its three stars.