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In a city known for its innovative dining scene, Kong Hans Kælder offers a refreshingly classic take on French cuisine, rooted in tradition and executed with precision. Located in a 12th-century medieval cellar in the heart of Copenhagen, this two-Michelin-starred restaurant provides a dining experience that blends historical charm with culinary finesse. Under the guidance of Head Chef Mark Lundgaard, Kong Hans Kælder continues to be a premier destination for those who appreciate the art of traditional French gastronomy.
My recent visit to Kong Hans Kælder was a testament to its well-earned reputation. The evening commenced with a series of hors d'oeuvres that set a promising tone. The Gillardeau oysters, accompanied by a touch of horseradish, were a perfect introduction—fresh and briny with a subtle kick. The Toast Melba, enhanced by chipotle and cilantro, offered a delightful combination of crunch and flavor.
One of the standout dishes was the Rossini Black Label caviar served with a quail egg. This dish was a true indulgence, with the rich, briny caviar harmonizing beautifully with the delicate egg. The Wagyu, paired with cognac and tarragon, was a highlight as well, showcasing the meat’s tenderness and the aromatic complexity of its accompaniments. Another memorable dish was the goose, complemented by apricot and marjoram, which struck a delicate balance between sweetness and savory notes. The Fried Bread with Comté and rosemary was a satisfying, rustic bite that added a touch of comfort to the meal.
As the meal progressed, each course reinforced the restaurant’s commitment to classic French cooking. The scallop with caviar and Champagne sauce was a fine example of understated elegance, allowing the natural sweetness of the scallop to shine. The turbot, served on the bone with artichoke and saffron sauce, was well-executed, with the fish’s flavor enhanced by the sauce’s subtle richness. The Danish lobster, paired with yellow beets and bisque, highlighted the freshness of the seafood, complemented by the earthy sweetness of the beets.
The Girasole pasta with chanterelles and parsley was a simple yet satisfying dish, demonstrating how quality ingredients and careful preparation can elevate a straightforward recipe. The "Rabbit à la grenobloise" was another well-prepared dish, featuring tender rabbit balanced by a sauce that added just the right amount of acidity. The Pithivier, filled with black winter truffle and served with sauce vin jaune, was a decadent nod to traditional French cuisine, leaving a lasting impression.
Service at Kong Hans Kælder adds to the restaurant’s classic appeal. The old-school touch of final plating by the waiter in the dining room added a level of sophistication to the experience. The cheese trolley, with 24 meticulously selected cheeses, was a highlight, featuring predominantly French varieties with one standout from Switzerland. Each cheese was in perfect condition, a true treat for any cheese lover.
Dessert at Kong Hans Kælder was a fitting conclusion to the meal. The Yuzu sorbet provided a refreshing interlude, while the "Redgrod med flode," a Danish classic, brought a comforting finish to the evening. The dessert trolley, offering a variety of sweet options, was an indulgent end to a well-rounded meal.
In summary, Kong Hans Kælder delivers a very good dining experience that is both classic and refined. While it may not push the boundaries of culinary innovation, it excels in providing a well-executed, traditional French meal in a setting steeped in history. For those seeking to enjoy high-quality French cuisine in Copenhagen, Kong Hans Kælder remains a solid choice, offering a dining experience that honors the timeless principles of fine dining.
8 / 10
