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Lunch at Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler
at
Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler
on 17 August 2024
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Atelier Moessmer, nestled in Brunico, South Tyrol, represents a significant chapter in the illustrious career of chef Norbert Niederkofler. Opened in July 2023, the restaurant is housed in a historic villa that was once part of the Moessmer Woolen Mill, an establishment known for producing luxury textiles for brands like Prada and Louis Vuitton. For Niederkofler, who lives nearby, this venture is both a personal and professional triumph, fulfilling a long-held dream.
The culinary philosophy at Atelier Moessmer is deeply intertwined with Niederkofler’s "Cook the Mountain" concept, which emphasizes sustainability and the use of locally sourced Alpine ingredients. The restaurant offers a unique dining experience, with a menu that evolves with the seasons, and dishes crafted with a rustic authenticity. Fire, rather than modern kitchen technologies like sous-vide, is the primary cooking method, resulting in bold and innovative dishes such as deer blood sausage and veal tongue. These dishes highlight a commitment to utilizing every part of the animal, reflecting the restaurant's dedication to ethical practices. The design of the restaurant further enhances the experience, with different spaces dedicated to various stages of the meal, including an aperitivo room and a chef’s table where guests can observe the kitchen in action.
Despite being open for only a short time, Atelier Moessmer has quickly garnered significant recognition, including three Michelin stars and a Green Star for sustainability. These accolades underscore the exceptional quality of the cuisine and the restaurant's commitment to ethical practices. Beyond his work at Atelier Moessmer, Niederkofler has taken on a significant role in NEOM, a futuristic city project in Saudi Arabia, where he is responsible for hospitality and sustainability. His involvement in this project aligns with his broader commitment to sustainable food systems on a global scale. Additionally, Niederkofler is passionate about mentoring the next generation of chefs, believing that the future of "Cook the Mountain" depends on empowering young people. He has expressed concerns that without passing on his knowledge and values, his vision for sustainable cuisine may not endure.
The dining experience at Atelier Moessmer reflects this philosophy. It begins with a selection of snacks served in the garden, including piada, a tartlet with freshwater prawns, "Bauerntoast," and churros, setting a relaxed yet refined tone. At the kitchen counter, the first course is a vibrant summer salad composed of 40 different herbs, leaves, and flowers, paired with a tomato-butter sauce reminiscent of Sauce Choron. The salad’s lively freshness and balanced bitterness are complemented by the umami-rich sauce, making it a superb introduction to the menu.
The smoked trout, slightly smoked in a cream sauce with olive oil, is exquisite, offering delicate flavors enhanced by the light smokiness. The accompanying bread, presented in two different forms, and butter are equally impressive, showcasing attention to detail even in the simplest elements. A highlight of the meal is the White Fish Tartare, a signature dish that perfectly captures the essence of Niederkofler’s philosophy. The warm, tender fish, topped with crispy skin and accompanied by a flavorful sauce made from local white wine and fish parts, is both refined and satisfying.
The beetroot gnocchi, filled with a spicy horseradish cream and complemented by a mild daikon purée and crunchy beer earth crumbs, is another standout. The dish is familiar yet exciting, with a slightly spicier edge that elevates its complexity. The risotto, topped with melting cheeses and herbs, delivers a wonderful balance of creaminess, making it a fantastic dish. Although the snails, served with herbs, are well-executed, they don’t quite reach the heights of the other offerings.
The Tyrolean beef, featuring local breeds like Alpine Grey or Pustertaler Sprinzen, is extraordinary. The meat’s texture and fat content are impeccable, embodying the richness of the South Tyrolean terroir. Desserts bring the meal to a satisfying close with offerings such as apricot and zabaglione, rhubarb and yoghurt, and "Cucciolone" or vol-au-vent. The Madeleine with jelly is a delightful bite, and the Tarte Tatin, with its airy puff pastry and perfectly balanced sweetness, capped with melting yogurt ice cream, is a masterful finale.
Overall, Atelier Moessmer delivers an extraordinary dining experience that seamlessly blends local tradition with innovative culinary techniques, all within a setting that honors the rich heritage of South Tyrol.
10 / 10
