Part 1/2

On first impression, Chef Zhang Zhicheng (小胖師傅) may come across as cocky. But after speaking with him over dinner, I think I mistook precocious confidence for arrogance. At 30, his understanding of flavour and technique sets him apart from his peers—and perhaps even from chefs a generation or two before him. So is he exceptional? Not yet; but he is definitely a name I’d keep an eye on.

His curiosity for his craft amazed me. We spoke about how he managed to achieve new flavours without bastardising them; or how he created better textures without additional steps. While Chef Zhang’s tastebuds inclined towards the heavy and robust more than I would like, it didn’t mar my enjoyment of his work. The first bite of each dish was enough to arrest my attention, and the flavours unraveled themselves layer by layer as I progressed.

Afterwards, he texted me several times, enquiring earnestly, in detail, on ways to improve the dishes. An oversized ego would never have stooped to such actions. While clearly conscious of his talent, Chef Zhang is sincere about wanting to be a better chef.
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