People told me that Mugaritz would be a love it or hate it experience. I fall firmly in the first camp. Exceptional meal, from start to finish. The setting is almost painfully picturesque—I wish you could smell the woods and hear the birdsong that was our music. The dishes were focused, delicious, and sometimes challenging. There was far less flash or in your face modernism than I expected. The technique was abundant if you know how to see it, but not gimmicky in any way. The premium pairings were exceptional, including Selosse lieu-dit, aged Margaux, and some local treasures. Service was flawless, even when I went off the rails and asked for more courses after the tasting menu wrapped up. A lazy hour of coffee, chocolate, and gin tonics under the oaks and elms capped off a brilliant afternoon. Less