Feasting Pigs

somewhere in sweden (april’24)

after a couple days in stockholm, we flew down to copenhagen and back into sweden through malmo for the new daniel berlin restaurant in a quaint countryside location facing the baltic sea - which was probably a meal we were most excited for but also nervous given how much of a trek we had to go through. we were completely blown away by the serenity and location, figuratively and literally cuz it was so windy, but most importantly the incredible cooking of chef, and his humble team. definitely making it into one of my best meals of the year and favourite restaurant in scandi thus far. presented with the best ingredients of its surroundings, finessed with minimalistic cooking which is most strive to achieve but only a few can perfect.

began with some bites which already set the standards so high, cured pike perch and the most incredible king crab bite, fried and topped with local pork cheek ham and finished with saffron, before the following bites made from mallard and pheasant liver. moving into the dining room, every single dish was so simple but so powerful. some of my favourites such as the lightly seared scallop in a cold dill and sugar kelp sauce which boosted the natural sweetness from the scallop, perfect poached quail and even sensational desserts to end the meal.

a journey 200% worth the detour from copenhagen, as well the most relaxing and enjoyable stay before a hearty swedish breakfast the next morning. highly highly recommend, truly deserving of all the accolades.
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tasting menu: (3500sek)
✨cured pike perch
✨warmed king crab with linderöds pork cheek
marinated mallard, rhubarb
✨pheasant liver tart

✨langoustine, brown butter, buttermilk
✨hot & cold scallop
pike perch loin, cabbage, birch leaf
fjörd shrimps in white beetroot
✨poached quail, quail bone broth, quail thigh rilettes with sourdough
✨milk fed lamb, morel
✨caramelised gloster apple

preserved pinecone, dried apple puff
✨honey sorbet, sweet herbs
✨plum cake with butter
mignardises
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: 3000sek-600sek
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📍VYN RESTAURANT
location: höga vägen 72, 272 92 simrishamn, sweden
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in stockholm, sweden (june’24)

the reason for our trip to stockholm was for frantzen, they attempt to fuse nordic ingredients with a japanese approach, but the meal simply didn’t reach my expectations, and everything here was unbearably salty. wine list was also unacceptably expensive, considering the wine lottery in scandi, they’re out for blood lol. very standard service expected of a restaurant of this calibre, didn’t feel like they took an extra step to make our experience better as i was told by others.

they took us up to the lounge when we arrived, did the whole shenanigans of looking at the ingredient box of the day with the same speech to all diners, then some snacks and bites which were the best items of the whole meal. proceeded to head down to the main dining area, where most of the hot food were served. with dishes featuring a homemade ‘dashi’ which is just really a chicken bouillon, and chawanmushi which was so painfully salty. nothing following was really memorable either apart from the salt, then we were brought back to the lounge for petite fours and their madeleines. maybe i’m a traditionalist where i prefer cakier styles with a perfect ‘bump’, these felt more spongey, doused in brown butter and cardamom sugar. to each their own but at least they’re warm, but even so couldn’t really salvage the meal.

overall a very very unsatisfying and one of the most disappointing meals of the year. don’t really recommend coming here, as its gone too commercialised, too expensive with unnecessarily strong seasoning.
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tasting menu: (4800sek)
amuse bouche
hamachi crudo: radish & marjoram
langoustine: nishiki rice, ginger & ramson
chawanmushi: aged pork broth, razor clams & “teardrop peas”
kinmedai: harissa, sea buckthorn & swarnadwipa
scallop: chicken dashi, vin jaune & lardo
white asparagus: coconut, lemongrass
duck “périgourdine”: caramelized citrus & foie gras
wild strawberries: frozen rhubarb & nasturtium
grilled pineapple: berries, sweet potato
petite fours
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would revisit: no
reservations online
price range pp: 300sek-6000sek
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📍FRANTZÉN
location: klara norra kyrkogata 26, stockholm
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in stockholm, sweden (april’24)

first meal in stockholm maybe my favourite meal, was quite unimpressed with the food in this city. most places were too salty for me or just overall unimpressive especially in comparison with the neighbouring nordic cities when they have access to so much great produce.

started with a piece of buttered toast with a shrimp and mayo salad with a generous scoop of lojrom roe which was quite nice. but mostly impressed with the swedish meatballs here, first time trying it properly and quite impressed by the blends of beef and pork here, not overly meaty in flavour and the texture was just right for me. really liked the gravy as well and the mash was adequately creamy. love the side of pickles and ligonberries to help break the meatiness, definitely a dish to try here in sweden and this place does it very solid.

we also got a swedish fish soup which was a a good balance of light creaminess, resembled a lobster bisque in flavour but even lighter. very different to the french style which is more decadent and richer in ‘sea-water’ brininess. they also served it with generous chunks of salmon, fennel and dill. a very nice place for trying traditional swedish food, ambience was also very laid back and romantic.
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butter fried toast with shrimp, mayo, dill & bleak roe (235kr)
meatballs with cream sauce, lingonberries, pickled cucumber, potato puree (265kr)
swedish fish soup with salmon, fennel, dill (325kr)
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: 300kr-600kr
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📍WÄRDSHUSET ULLA WINBLADH
location: rosendalsvägeb 8, stockholm, sweden
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in bangkok, thailand (june’24)

wow, finally made it to a shop i’ve been trying since 2021 as our last meal this trip. have been constantly dm-ing them to ask for seats and so lucky this trip i have found someone kind enough to take me with them.

run by chef yu and tommy, they are known to some as the top thai home kitchen and definitely one of if not the hardest table to score in bangkok. there are only 2 large tables so i was so privileged to finally dine here.

my favourite dishes tonight were the cabbage stem fried in salted fish which was so flavourful and the fried crab in chilli and beans. their signature spaghetti dish was very moreish, it had a creamy sauce made of prawn oil and fat and topped with ample large prawns. also really enjoyed the classic thai dishes like pork neck, fish sauce chicken wings and my favourite dish of the fried eagle fish in a slightly sweet sauce. their fried prawn with garlic was also incredibly massive in size drenched in more prawn oil, and their garlic pork liver texture was also cooked well. ended the meal with a banana samosa, untraditional but very satisfying ending. so glad to have finally tried this place, would like the come back for more dishes next time i’m in bangkok.
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✨grilled pork neck (฿700)
fish sauce chicken wings (฿650)
✨pa-lo braised pork belly (฿850)
fried laab (฿650)
✨garlic fried shrimp in shrimp fat (฿850)
✨garlic fried pork liver (฿700)
fried & caramlised pork belly (฿650)
crab meat rice (฿780)
crispy pork rind fried rice (฿680)
✨fried eagle fish (฿780)
squid soup (฿580)
soup with radish and minced pork (฿580)
✨stir fry prawn with chilli pepper (฿800)
✨stir fry crab meat in yellow chilli (฿850)
✨salted fish cabbage stem (฿480)
black pepper beef fried rice (฿680)
shrimp in shrimp fat spaghetti (฿650)
banana samosas with whipped cream
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would revisit: yes
introduction only (ask via dm)
price range pp: ฿1000-฿3000
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📍BAAN NUAL
location: 37 fueang nakhon road, khwaeng wat ratchabophit, khet phra nakhon, bangkok
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in bangkok, thailand (june’24)

next stop is rark, another highly anticipated dining spot this trip as they have recently relocated to a larger location, making bookings slightly easier to manage. it was overall my favourite shop this trip, and i am happy to be told by my friends that their standards have maintained from their previous location.

their presentation and details were amongst one of the top this trip especially the bites. i think their meat and fish dishes here were done particularly well, but soups and curries were on the slightly weaker side. shared 3 plates of beef tongue between 5, very impressed with the thickness and tenderness achieved from local thai beef. their ‘signature’ pork and tomato stew was tangy and appetising, making it one of my favourite dishes tonight along with the sweet and salty soft shell crab. both fried fish dishes were very well done, one with a mangosteen salad which was particularly remarkable, and one in a sour soup. the duck in the curry was nicely cooked, but the curry wasn’t very aromatic and their homemade babin tasted a bit weird. ended with a guava and torch ginger ice cream, which was a bit weird for me, out of the scope of my palate’s familiarity.

overall a very nice dinner, would love to come back at my next trip to bangkok for more dishes as they are just settling into their new kitchen.
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✨crispy pancake, crab fat sauce & huahin caviar (฿690)
cured prawn with big butt ant (฿310)
puffed taro crab cake with apple ajad (฿400)
✨crispy scale threadfin bream with mangosteen (฿550)
✨beef tongue with grape and fermented fish relish (฿570)
✨sweet & salty soft shell crab (฿650)
stir fry beans with thai style bacon (฿295)
aromatic blood sausage with chives relish (฿390)
roasted duck red curry & coconut pancake (฿550)
✨orange soup with pork and tomato (฿360)
✨traditional sour goby fish soup (฿670)
aromatic shrimp paste soup with pork (฿390)
guava torch ice cream with chilli and salt (฿250)
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would revisit: yes
reservations online
price range pp: ฿1000 - ฿3000
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📍RARK ราค
location: 4 soi pridi banomyong 26 phatthana wet soi 3, khlong tan nuea, bangkok
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in bangkok, thailand (june’24)

ever-since my meal at saeng tha-tian, i’ve been wanting to visit more of these home style kitchens in bangkok, as i do prefer these to fine dining now a days. one which has been very popular recently is keawloon, with recipes passed on for generations in the family including influences from nakhon si thammarat (southern) and sukhothai tani (north bangkok).

their most famous dishes here are the black rice, which is
steamed with squid ink and topped with mud crab, and their turmeric rice with a piece of fried fish. i did very much enjoy the black rice, mixed with a zingy spicy seafood sauce. the slightly sticky texture of the rice mixed with a clam based sauce was quite flavourful and enjoyable.

their unique dishes here was the reason i wanted to try this restaurant, as some dishes served here are not regularly seen in other thai kitchens. other plates i loved tonight include the sweetened toddy palm braised pork, as well as their squid dishes, of squid ink and in a simple chilli spring onion stir fry. their squid is noticeably fresh, with good ‘crunch’ in its texture. i couldn’t really eat the the southern pork curry as it was insanely spicy, and the rest of the dishes were okay, a nice try with nothing jumping out for me. regardless was still surrounded by excellent company, service here was also very good.
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june menu: (฿6,928 per table)
sweet shrimp, relish with sour vegetables, chilli paste
mushroom in fish sauce
salted fish, omelette
✨pork ribs in toddy palm
✨mud crab black rice
turmeric rice with fried fish
✨stir fry squid with spring onion
shrimp fried in shrimp paste
curry with pork cartilage
stir fried spinach in pork neck
preserved mayongchid with ice

+ fried pork (฿256)
+ ✨stir fry squid in squid ink (฿456)
+ ✨stir fry liang leaves with eggs (฿189)
+ spicy fish salad (฿456)
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would revisit: try once
reservations by dm
price range pp: ฿1000- ฿3000
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📍แก้วลูน KEAWLOON
location: 21/3 saeng chan, phra khanong, khlong toei, bangkok
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in bangkok, thailand (june’24)

challenging the norms of fine-dining, haawm brings about the ‘hominess’ in asian cooking with everything cooked and presented by the chef dylan himself. you can either choose the four people private table, or you will be seated in the share table of 10, eating along strangers which was definitely daunting for me.

bringing a touch of modernness into traditional recipes and ingredients, making thai food approachable to foreigners and also a new perspective for locals. really loved the starters of the june menu, the sour mango with sweet fish sauce and the duck laab on fried kratom leaf with some pickled sansho on the side. king mackerel was the spiciest dish of the night, very appetising followed by one of my favourites, the pork belly satay.

for mains, really loved the relish of smoked fish and crispy prawn. it really helped sooth the palate from all the spice, and worked so well with the soft boiled eggs. the chicken dish inspired by tom kha kai was also one of my favourites today, also enjoyed the fried pork sausage with clams. the beef in the curry was too smokey for me, and the soft shell crab was nicely fried but was more of a ‘wow’ dish for the first timers who’ve never had it before.

desserts were the only part which was a bit farfetched for my palate but overall an enjoyable meal. foreigner friendly and great for sociable people to meet new dining partners. personally i’d rather stick with the private table if i do come back next time…
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june menu (฿2,700+)
✨sour mango, sweet fish sauce

duck laab, kratom leaf
king mackeral sashimi, young ginger, citrus
✨pork belly satay, pineapple ajad, roti

✨smoked fish & crispy prawn relish, steamed egg
pork sausage, clams, fermented fish sauce
grilled beef curry, santol fruit, chaham
cabbage, dried chilli, szechuan pepper
✨galangal, coconut cream, chicken thigh
soft shell crab, garlic and turmeric, curry leaf

coffee jelly, sweet milk
yellow bean custard, fried shallots
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would revisit: yes
reservations through dm
price range pp: ฿1000 -฿3000
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📍HAAWM ON NUT
location: 290 soi on nut 25, suan luang, bangkok
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in bangkok, thailand (june’24)

my annual visit to my favourite se asian country, so so happy to be back to visit good friends and have the best street food. first dinner of the trip was at a very local isaan style shabu-shabu. sourcing local thai cows for their beef as well as cooked beef dishes which were both equally good and addictively spicy.

for starters, we got some local roast beef, beef tongue, raw shrimp and grilled pork neck. all served together with 2 dipping sauces, a salty spicier one and a sweeter one. the roast beef and beef tongue were really good, lean and tender with rich beefy flavour without being gamey. the raw prawn though spicy, dressed in a fish sauce chilli and garlic concoction was also a must order. (sorry for the poor photos, lost mine alongside my phone)

they serve two types of beef for the main hotpot, a type of beef shank and a chuck flap. both meats are extremely thin cut compared to shops in hong kong, leaving the shank with a unique crunchy texture and the chuck flap noticeably more tender. the broth was quite light, mild aromatics and a lot of chilli. they don’t top up with water or broth along the meal so the chilli concentration increases through the meal. a very unique spot and beginner experience into thai beef, recommend coming with a local for the best experience, thank you so much to the best host @luxebelly as always.
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✨roast beef เนื้อย่าง (฿250)
grilled beef tongue ลิ้นวัวย่าง (฿250)
beef spicy salad นํ้าตกเนื้อ (฿180)
✨marinated shrimp กุ้งแช่น้ำปลา (฿180)
grilled pork neck คอหมูย่าง (฿150)

✨beef hotpot set แจ่วฮ้อนเนื้อดาวกระจาย (฿390)
✨fresh beef per plate เนื้อดาวกระจายสด (฿200)
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would revisit: yes
reservations by phone
price range pp: ฿1,000-฿3,000
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📍 เจ้หมวยแจ่วฮ้อน จิ้มจุ่มอีสาน JAY MUAY
location: 32/385 khlong kluea, pak kret district, nonthaburi, bangkok
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in nagoya, japan (june’24)

nagoya is also very well known for their unagi, with numerous unajyu shops open for a casual lunch or/and dinner. one of the more notable ones are ichibiki, located in the city center, never fails to have queues for a slot for lunch. i arrived just before 8am on a sunday morning, as tickets for lunch releases at 9:30am, and was 8th in line and got one of the last tickets for the first slot of 11:30am. recommend a weekday if possible, and do recommend arriving before 8:30am to guarantee a slot here.

came back for my unajyu, ordered a slightly larger version with 4 pieces of unagi and wow. they use kansai style preparation, in which they directly grill the unagi without steaming. soft and tender meat with a crispy edge, tare was also perfectly rich without being overwhelming. the char-grill flavour was also exceptional, not too strong and balances well with the thick and fatty meat. the set comes with an osuimono which is the innards in dashi, as well as pickles. truly worth the queue for me as one of my personal favourite renditions of unajyu so far.
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✨うな重(上丼）　(¥4500)
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would revisit: yes
reservations daily at 9:30am
price range pp: ¥4,000-¥8,000
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📍イチビキ
location: 1-3-16 meiekiminami, nakamura ward, nagoya
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in nagoya, japan (june’24)

hello nagoya, city of impossible reservations with restaurants not even known to outsiders. one of which is nozawa, run by a super cute husband and wife duo serving their own take on washoku with innovative twists and creations. so glad to have visited after being closed for some time, thank you so much for the invitation!

really enjoyed the length course tonight, rustic cooking and super impressed by the grandpa being the only chef and serving at an incredible pace. also recommend their highball made of freshly cut ice by taisho.

loved the start of the awabi and refreshing corn puree, on warabi tofu, super summery. really loved the small details like the madai and asparagus coated in okagi biscuit crust to mimic a fried fish, or using kensaki ika diced then shaped like an onigiri. also loved the katsuo topped with a shoyu made with cashew nuts and the corn in the managatsuo dish which was also poached in lemon, to bring an acidity to a miso marinated fatty fish. another dish i love was the one day dried ayu, with an incredible liver sauce served alongside it. ended with an ochazuke and a lovely miyazaki tamago mango as dessert.

so lucky to have visited this very hidden gem, with no publicly announced location and strictly regulars only. would love to be back another time for another menu, and under the hospitality of the gracious wife and husband taisho.

六月のコース (¥45,000):
✨蒸し鮑　蕨の豆腐　ともろこし awabi, warabi tofu, corn
湯葉ワイトアスパラ車海老 yuba, white asparagus & prawn
✨真鯛とアスパラおかき madai, aspragus in okagi
毛蟹の握り kegani nigiri
琵琶鱒棒寿司 biwa masu bosushi
✨カツオ カシューナッツ醤油 katsuo cashew nut shoyu
アオリイカ、イサキ、海苔 aori ika, isaki, nori
✨雲丹、焼き剣先イカ「おにぎり」 uni, kensaki ika
✨鮎のー夜干し dried ayu
真魚鰹、とうもろこし managatsuo, baby corn and lemon
毛蟹　旬菜　レンコンお椀 kegani, junsai, lotus root owan
舞茸　焼きなす　肉 maitake, grilled eggplant and beef
お茶漬け ochazuke
宮崎マンゴー miyazaki mango
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would revisit: yes
members only
price range pp: ¥40,000-¥60,000
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📍野嵯和
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