Lunch at Horváth

Lunch at Horváth

at Horváth on 31 August 2018
Photo Views
2
Meal Views
699

Farm-to-table Austrian cuisine, with an emphasis on vegetables.
Michelin 2*

9 / 10

Entry courtyard.

Their famous spork, which also appears on their logo.

Reduction of roasted vegetables. A broth made with parsley, celeriac & carrot. The same ingredients will come back at the end, completing a poetic circle.

Various small nibbles. As you will see, the menu is lighter and vegetable-driven... which is a great antidote to my previous five substantial tasting menus.

Semolina dumpling, cheese foam, iced smoothie of various greens. The three parts are meant to be combined in each bite.

Butter bread - steamed malt bread with black beer and chocolate, butter and herbs; whitefish caviar; cold potato cream and garlic. Oh boy... there was a ton going on with the moist bread vessels.

Green tomatoes and anchovies - Compote of green tomatoes, celery, and cucumber; anchovies and almond paste with duck fat; mustard seeds

The main savory course. Grilled breast of “Kikok” chicken; chicken soup fat noodle with buttercream; spicy mushrooms marinated with vinegar; root vegetable milk;

Bread service

Whitefish, marinade of caraway and herbs; corn and garlic broth. Excellent marriage of sweet and smoky.

Mushrooms and creamy vegetable sauce; desiccated lettuce. The inspiration for this is a traditional Austrian dish of minced beef and cream, but here, mushrooms are deftly substituted... and loaded with umami.

Onion goulash. Grilled leek with smoky lard; onion confit; spicy goulash paste. Another one that was deceptively packed with flavor.

Steamed eggplant, mint syrup, parsley sorbet

Roasted vegetables; roasted sweet flour; apricot ice cream. While I was enjoying this, it reminded me of sweet potatoes and Thanksgiving... but apparently the vegetables used were celeriac and carrot... the same as in the broth in the first course. The meal comes full circle.

Dessert shooter of pig’s blood, chocolate, and berries, in edible paper. When I asked the server to repeat the first item, he just laughed at me and wouldn’t do so. So I took the plunge... it was actually good. Sweet and hearty... no pun intended